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The Jet Set
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John Garney
VBOOST Volume 1, Issue 3, 1997

I just got off the phone with Clint after one of those, " Hey bud, where's your tech article for the third issue anyway?" Time just blasts by here at PCW racing. Our two Pro-Mod Kawasaki's' are doing great at the drag strip. With the help of some new pistons from MTC, we machined up a real nice I 500cc, I 4.5 to I nitrous motor that after it's fourth run produced the quickest 1/8 mile time ever turned by a Kawasaki on pump gas and juice, 4.S42 --0.18 mph!! It would have been a great 114 mile too but the new, very experimental S speed would not shift 4th gear smoothly or top gear at all! We will get it sorted out by the Indy Prostar race. If you are in the Indy area around the 16th and 17th of August, please stop by the PCW trailer. We would love to see you there. To accomplish record setting performance on the track or the street requires the COITect fuel to air ratio in your carburetor. At this point in the game, we have spent more time developing the right combination of jet kit pal1s and air filter replacements for the street V-Max than we ever spent on our drag bike "mixers". The one place that there is no room for compromise is in the dyno room. One local shop owner swore at the Dynojet 150 as he rolled out of our shop " Everybody wants rear wheel numbers and If they aren't better than the next guy, I didn't do my job correctly even if the thing can still smoke the lire all the way across town! !" Peak numbers are it. They Can be the driving force behind many a performance project. Sometimes I think they are highly over rated. To me it's a ridable curve, something that makes power in the "user range" of 3500 rpm to 8000 rpm. Man, I must be getting old! !Ii was always the "Performance Range" of 7000 rpm to I 1000 rpm that was important. We make both types of engine, pipe and carb combinations. Bottom line for a street bike is ride ability. Good cold start, good hot start,
steady idle that doesn't search and smooth power delivery at steady cruising throttle or with fast rotation of the go grip. The best thing you can do for your stock V-Max is to do what the factory guys aren't allowed to do because ofour friends the "Feds". Pull the cork out of the exhaust pipe by installing an aftermarket pipe (i.e. more noise) , increase the amount of air flow in the airbox (i.e. some more noise), and best of all add more fuel to the suddenly scary lean mixture you have created with all that added air flow. The really neat thing i'i that with added fuel flow comes, you guessed it, more exhaust noise! ! If the Japanese thought the V-Max needed more power to compete in it's class (which we all know it has no competition ) they could add electronic controls inside the carb to reduce noise at 5000 rpm ( where the Feds test ), increase the airbox volume and flow ( i.e. pressurized ), and increase exhaust volume and flow. Our tests show that an average late model , digital ignition V-Max will produce a peak of 112.8 rear wheel H.P. and will average 108.1 H.P. between 7000 rpm and 10000 rpm. We will use the range between 7000 and 10000 to test because this information is the most accurate. The next test was with a late model that had a Hindle with the comp baffle, the Factory jet kit, 157.5 mains, K&N in the air box with the top off, and 3 1\2 turns out on the slow speed screw. This combination gave us a peak of
117.0 H.P. and an average between 7000 and 10000 of 113.1 H.P. The last combination we used for this comparison was a late model with our 39 FCR Keihin smoothbores, 140.0 main, Kerker pipe with a compo baffle. This set up brought 121.5 H.P. to the rear tire with an average between 7000 and 10000 of 117.5 H.P. The other interesting data that showed up was the power spread at 10400 rpm, right at the end of the test. The stock bike produced 94.8 H.P. at this point. the Factory jet kit model with the Hindle created 103.9 H.P. and the 39 FCR was still steaming at 113.4 H.P. Max is saying" let me breathe!" All right, enough with the numbers! ! The point I am trying to make here is that there are carb related mods that you yourself can do at home that will yield positive results. Anything you can do for Max to make her breathe easier makes it run smoother and cooler. Scott has a carb tech flier that explains in detail how to remove the stock carb, disassemble it, install the jet kit, reinstall the carb and dial it in. There is also a simple step by step instruction sheet with the FCR carb kit to make it very simple to install. A late model Max with the FCR and a Kerker came in second in the stock engine class at the AMI Dyno.Shoot out at Daytona this spring. Second to a GSXR with 40 Mikunis and an open pipe. With the right pipe and canister choice, you can call that guy with the "Hot Rod" GSXR next door and have a little fun! ! Just remember that Uncle Sam does not want you on the public highways with a modified pipe and carbs so enjoy it while you can!!!

Posted on: 2013/10/18 14:17
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Be safe out there and enjoy the ride....

Mike Moore
VMOA Webmaster






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