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Tech Review: Stage 7 & Reverse Shift Patter
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From: 2013 Spring VBOOST

Prior to buying my Gen-II 2009 VMax I owned a 2000 VMax which I bought new in April 2000. I owned this much loved bike for 10 years and probably did about every upgrade and mod possible short of a supercharger or turbo. It went from Stage -1 to Flat-slides to E.F.I. Stock 1200 cc to 1260 cc then to a 1500 cc “Tourmaster”. I added 17” wheels/ radials to an inverted R1 front fork etc… When doing the upgrade from Stage -1 to Stage -7 a Kerker 4/2/1 exhaust was also added. Back in 2000 I found a VBoost article by Patrick Ahearn (winter 2000 - Volume 4 Issue 1) to be extremely valuable and effective. This upgrade boosted my 1200 from about 110 RWHP to a respectable 125 RWHP. I found Patrick’s instructional article to be on target and well worth the look see. I also did the “reverse shift” from 1 down and 4 up to the 1 up and 4 down as outlined by Don Mason in the same VBoost issue. The reverse shift modification was extremely easy to do effective when racing and easy to reverse if desired. Actually I ran the reverse shift pattern for nearly 10 years. There definitely was an adjustment period but owning only the one bike at that time it presented no problems. When I bought the Gen-II and having not done the reverse shift mod on it I did have to take note of which bike I was riding at any particular time. I look forward to this riding season and all the various VMOA events I plan to attend. I hope to meet and ride with as many of you as possible. See ya in the Ozarks the Illinois Michigan or Indiana Rally this year. Be Careful Be Safe and Be There! Rick Rash #1283 Illinois Chapter Leader So I present for your review the following two tech articles; Reprint of Tech articles from the winter 2000 issue. Stage Seven: VMOA members; — For you guy’s and gal’s that want to go for a Dyno- Jet Stage 7 and want to keep the VBoost set up and the air box I have your solution. This includes how to pay less for your Stage 7. After installing my setup my V-Max pulled 122.8 HP fi rst time out without any motorcycle mechanic intervention. I do owe thanks to TC and his thorough understanding of carb functions. 1. From DYNO-Jet order a Stage-1 with Stage 7 needles (DNT 426) and the tool to put in corrector jets (DT001). Also order 4 (DJ175) main jets. Cost is $140.97 plus shipping. Call DUSTY at DJ. Ask Dusty to send you a copy of DJ Stage 7 instructions. 800-992-4993. be nice not everybody at DJ wants to be this accommodating. 2. Replace stock filter with K&N replacement if you haven’t. Take off “Y” manifold of top of air box. Trim plastic on air box lid to filter shape. Trim 1/4” rubber lip off entrance of K&N filter. That’s all for the air box. 3. Follow Stage & instructions for jet and needle instructions. Don’t bother putting needle position 4 down this is way too rich. Go to 3 down and you will probably end up at 2 down like I did. How do you tell the needle is rich? When you are going down the highway at 75-90 MPH the motor at a steady speed has a gargle or burble sound instead of a nice purposeful drone. I’m sure DJ’s 4 down setting is to start you out rich. 4. Almost everybody that has a stage 7 uses DJ 175 on the mains. It seems to be a good street setting. I have the feeling that DJ 170 might be a better DYNO setting because of the leanness. 5. I could not find a definitive setting on the idle screws with the v-boost open so I set the idle screws at 2 ½ out. Works just fi ne. Set idle around 1200- 1300 RPM. 6. To V-Boost or not to V-Boost? That is the question… My setup is with the V-Boost open. I tried both ways. I liked open better because of the FAT midrange. Some claim the peak HP is the same. Peak HP is always with V-Boost open on in both cases. My recommendations are designed for V-Boost open. The down side of V-Boost open is a rough idle (it has a look at me quality) and sometimes poor starting when cold as in my case. My V-Max has always been a poor starter when cold so what I did was put a reverse polarity switch on the servo motor that operates the V-Boost. Others have used cables. The switch (IMHO) is the easier install. When starting I just close the V-Boost. When the engine warms up a tad I open the V-Boost. I also close the V-Boost in bumper to bumper traffic for a nice stock idle and easier putting along. For instructions on switch contact me. 7. For everything to work right your slides need to be free and clean. You also need to synch your carbs. Float levels can have a effect on your idle mixture. Unless you have an obvious problem it is probably better to leave them alone. I had a problem one blue pipe out of four. After all is installed and you have this problem it can be corrected easily. Contact me for solution. My setup pulled 122.8 HP with a very heavy Bridgestone tire (9 lbs. +) and a hurried Dyno session. I had to drive 80 miles to get there. With a little planning and some leaner mixtures on the main jet I feel you should be able to do better on the DYNO. My present setup is KICK A$$ fun and runs just perfect. The operator of the DYNO George Babor of Babor Performance Motors of Clearwater Fl. Was impressed and felt the jetting was just right. My reading was the best he had seen of numerous VMaxes he had done. By the way I run a Hindle 4-1 with SS muffl er. For those that want a schematic of the v-boost switch contact me privately for a copy. Patrick Ahearn VMOA#570
The “MASON MOD”:
Reverse shift pattern 1 up 4 down. This mod will allow for faster and more precise up shifts.
● COST: under $100
● TIME: under 2 hrs.
● DIFFICULTY LEVEL: 3 out of 10 HOW TO:
● Remove the left foot peg bracket.
● Take note of position of shift pedal.
● Loosen lock nuts on shift rod (linkage) Top one is left hand thread.
● Remove the shift rod (linkage)
● Cut about 3/8” off each end of the shift rod (linkage). A Dremel tool works well.
● Remove pinch bolt on (splined) shift lever assembly.
● Pull splined shift lever off of shaft and rotate it CCW to about half way between the 9:00 and 10:00 position + or - to your liking. Re-install splined lever and pinch bolt.
● Re-install shift rod (linkage) between shift pedal and shift lever. Adjust shift pedal close to original position. ● Install foot peg with forward bolt only so peg bracket can swing for clearance. ● Lift peg bracket up close to shift lever and mark bracket for clearance.
● Remove bracket and cut just enough metal to clear all shift apparatus. (Dremel tool works well)
● Touch up cut area with paint.
● Re-install peg and bracket when dry.
●Adjust shift pedal to your liking and tighten lock nuts.

Don Mason VMOA #970

Posted on: 2013/11/4 14:15
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Be safe out there and enjoy the ride....

Mike Moore
VMOA Webmaster






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