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2001/8/20 12:00
From Mount Airy
Posts: 453
Level : 19; EXP : 73
HP : 0 / 468
MP : 151 / 24397
Paul OG Beaumont
VBOOST Volume 1, Issue 4, 1997

An instructional article to promote & have VMOA membership demonstrate the proper etiquette & techniques to promote the hooligan image of the KING-Of'-SMOKE V-Max.
My target audience are those people who have not done a burnout, a nm out, or want to drag the V-max for the first time. Over the last year it became obvious to me that many people have never done a burnout and in fact, many were hesitant to admit same. You know that ego thing!
Of all the types of riding I've done, I had never drag raced before. Having acquired a new 96 V-Max I ended up researching what it took to be a good drag racer on a V-Max. I spoke with many professionals and amateurs alike about drag racing the Max and learned a great deal about the Max and how opinions differ.
Alarmed with prior experiences, the collective opinions of many, I arrived at the drag strip burnout area thinking I'll do a long bum out, followed by a run out. Yes exactly, I was about ready to show off! Well, I dropped clutch at about 6,000 RPM, forgot what I was doing, sat down a little and before you know it, people were scattering as I managed to do a 180 degree rum in the bum out area with no sign of backing off! As it turned out, all of us, including me, laughed hard all night long as I arrived each time into the bum out area and everyone would start to run away. I don't think I ever laughed so hard, nor suffered so much humiliation riding a motorcycle.
The experiences & knowledge I pass on to you are tried and true and have been very successful for me. I hope to reduce your fears about bum outs & hard launches and to produce that "V-MAX HOOLIGAN GRIN". My views represent many collective view points on how to do such things and I do this to (I) Save someone embarrassment, (2) Encourage that' first' burnout, with fear (whoops, [ mean without fear), and to aid in the proper hooligan image, with plans to buy stock in tire companies through the acceptance of these techniques by the VMOA membership.
As it's known on the internet V-Max News Group here is education course:
"BURN OUT 101-A"
Your Arrival at Drag Strip. Look cool, you own a V-Max. Select a night at the strip that most have which is street amateur night. Bring your full faced DOTI Snell helmet, leather gloves, boots (or sneakers which you probably get away with), and leather jacket. Your stock VMax, unless you're Pee Wee Gleason. or just very good, won't go over 120mph. so you will not need leather zipped pants or a one piece leather suit, or tethered kill switch. The 85 V-Max or modified may exceed 120 but at least you will get one run in.
The Typical Drag Strip. Upon arrival you go through technical inspection (helmet bike -leather). You sign your life away, saying If I die, I won't blame you! The burnout area is at the very back end of the strip filled with water or other substance. The starting line area is probably 100+ feet away with the starting line marked with sensors for 'pre-stage' just before starting line and the 'staged' (ready to go) area, some a few inches further up. The stage area is probably 611" in total distance. I normally deep stage (stop, as soon as I get into the stage area) but it depends on your launch conditions and launch techniques. After running 1/4 mile you typically exit right using last exit. As well, you can most likely get your time slip on the return route to see how you did. -Bike Preparation for Drags. On stock Max I ran firmest rear stock settings, front air shocks @ 12psi, Rear tire pressure was
best for me with stock tire at 16 psi. Although I did run with 12 through stock air pressure. 12 psi is marginal! y too low.
Rear Wheel Preparation. This is preparation for a drag strip vent. Bum outs on the street without water are easier than dry track bum outs because traction is better at the strip. Launches are of course a little more difficult on street with less traction available.
(a) Drive past water, avoiding water. and then back into water about I foot. Move forward just out of water, or as 'I do (b) Drive through water trying to avoid getting front tire wet. but yet. getting a fair amount of water on rear tire. Yes, as you'll see others. you don't have to do this. but I do.
Burn Out Preparation. Just past water pit. line up straight &
GRAB FRONT BRAKE (I use 2 fingers) & lock. PUSH DQWN on front to get weight off rear.
INTO 2ND GEAR. All experts agree that use of 2nd (sometimes 3rd -for bum & gos). Reduce stress on drive line, make bumouts more controllable, make burn & gos (run offs) longer and more controllable.
LIFT YQUR BUTT just slightly off seat. not all, but a little so you're not compressing your weight down; put feet firmly planted & flatfoot stance directly under you to control your weight distribution and to control bike. If you don't and you sit down hard the bike will fishtail too much.
RPM TO 4200-5000 RPM & HOLD. (4500-5000 on street) and NOW, YOU MUST NOW TRUST ME AND
FULL CLUTCH DUMP. (I use two fingers here too -my preference) NO HESITATION. NO RESERVATION. Even if you screw up and don't do this you won't get killed ...and you can still have kids.
The bike may JUMP. .. hippy-di-hoppy ... If (I) you did not push down on front, (2) RPM a little low. (3) front brake not locked. (4) no full clutch dump.
But don't worry ..this is not a scary event. .. don't panic & pull in clutch. Just correct with higher rpm 5-6000 & keep brake locked. If you do panic, just pull in clutch .... if you do get out of shape (ala Beaumont doing 180 degree swings in burnout area & scaring everyone -just pull in clutch... Normally I dump and bring up RPMs quickly.
Soon as you dump clutch. you want to stabilize your RPM & your bike for initial bum out.
BRING RPM UP TO BETWEEN 5400-6000 -not over 6500 during this.

Staging Techniques:
-As you lean forward rotate so your feet are behind you ON YOUR TOES AND PUSH INTO PRE-STAGE. Don't use clutch (yeah it's ok though -mostly for chain guys -where you don't want slop in Chain). -Now CREEP FORWARD JUST INTO STAGED. Regardless of rpm for LAUNCH KEEPING STEADY RPM ... do not blip ... or you will lose to me.

LAUNCH TIMING. A standard sportsmen tree has sequentially phased amber Iights to green (we amateurs don't do those quick pro trees).
-Launch on last amber light. It comes on fully and you 're launched . Practice based on your R/T to determine precisely when during the last light takes a little practice and is dependent upon traction off launch and how deep you stage. I deep stage (just into stage) and anticipate some spin most of the time & phase slightly just after the light comes on trying to launch as it's shutting off -average R/T is about .540-560 on a .500 tree which is not bad. Yes, have had some .500-501s.
Launch @ 3800-4800 depending on traction and of course you must feather clutch to avoid spin. Immediately after launch I try & get maximum rpm & clutch release to the point where 2' past line (after initial hit) my wheel comes up 2-4 inches off the ground and held most of 1st. Try to avoid engine bogging transitioning from initial launch to maximum rpm ... Easier said than done but feels good when you do hit it takes some practice with the Max. It is common place to have tire spin 10-20' out after launch and again power shifting into 2nd, possibly 3rd.

Should you race against me, remember to focus at the line. and carry a very powerful halogen flashlight aimed right at your eyes. So watch the tree lights.

Get down in tuck ASAP, hit shifts from 9200-9500 (l usually hit 2nd at 96000-10,000) as I can't get my foot up fast enough to my current elec. shifter. 3rd & 4th are in my case best at approx. 9300-9400 to produce best results. Keep your head down after shutdown @ approx. stock speeds of 115-120 -when you shutdown -the wind force kind of switches and can hit you pretty hard ... coast a little after shutdown gradually. not abruptly slowing down.

SHIFTING. Use elec over / air shifters or Power Shift ... Power shift being full rpm (no back off) & shift where you don't back off throttle at all and simply & quickly flash the clutch & shift. On the Max this docs typically induce head shake in all gears especially 2nd but you're going straight and has never started' to oscillate on me whether on stock or modified Max. Each shift I figure is about a 1/10th second ... conventional shifting costs you even more.
-Honorable first course graduate honors goes to our VMOA 1st Lady, Cheryl Owen who might just 'toast me' off the line. I'm old, so have pity on me when you meet me at the drags or at a stoplight. Don't try & beat me by too much off the line and embarrass me.
One footnote, the Max is most certainly not the 1/4 mile king, BUT let me tell you,THE Y-MAX MAY .JUST OWN THE 1/8 MILE! I currently tum 1/8th in 6 seconds at 100+ speeds giving fits most definitely to the stock hyper bikes and quite a few high performance jobs.

Posted on: 2013/10/18 15:38
Be safe out there and enjoy the ride....

Mike Moore
VMOA Webmaster

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